Knowledge base

Buying a Jaguar Mk2

By Jon Cosson — classic-car owner, North Yorkshire, near Thornton-le-Dale

Dark green 1960s British classic sports saloon with chrome bumpers and wire wheels parked on a gravel drive
Placeholder image — owner to replace with a photograph of a car being inspected.

A good Mk2 is one of the great classic saloons; a bad one is a bottomless restoration. As with most unibody classics, the bodyshell decides everything — get that right and the rest follows.

Rust matters more than mileage

The Mk2 was Jaguar's first unitary (monocoque) design, sharing its hull with the Mk1, and it has many mud and water traps. A clean, sound shell matters far more than a low odometer reading. Most survivors have been restored, so the real question is how well — see rust and where they rot.

The engine and gearbox

The XK six is tough but not immortal — check the oil pressure, ask for rebuild history and evidence, listen for even running, and confirm it does not overheat. The four-speed (or overdrive) gearbox should be quiet; many cars now have a five-speed conversion.

Which engine — 3.4, 3.8 or 2.4?

The 3.8 is the one everyone wants (220bhp, the performance icon). But the 3.4 is only around 10bhp behind, feels nearly as quick, and is often the value sweet spot. The 2.4 is the slow one (it cannot quite reach 100mph). More on the engine in the XK engine explained.

Provenance and originality

Matching numbers, a documented history and honest restoration records all support value. A genuine period Coombs car is a six-figure rarity; be wary of "Coombs" claims without provenance — see the Coombs Mk2.

The bottom line

Buy the best shell you can afford — a sound, honestly-restored car at a fair price is almost always cheaper than a cheap one needing the welder. Have any car inspected by a Jaguar specialist before you commit. Values move, so check current guides.

Common questions

What is the most important thing when buying a Jaguar Mk2?
The bodyshell. The Mk2 is a monocoque with many rust traps, so a sound, honestly-restored shell matters far more than low mileage; rust repair is the expensive work.
Is the 3.4 or 3.8 Mk2 better to buy?
The 3.8 is the performance icon and most sought-after, but the 3.4 is only about 10bhp behind, feels nearly as quick and is often better value; the 2.4 is much slower.
How much is a Coombs Mk2?
A genuine period Coombs-modified Mk2 is very rare (around 33 built) and can command £200,000 or more restored, so treat unverified 'Coombs' claims with caution.
Should I get a Mk2 inspected before buying?
Yes — a specialist inspection focused on the structure and the engine is money very well spent given how costly body and engine work can be.